Calabria Summer 2007

Marco & Jules on the road to the Calabrian Coast.

Calabrian coast & our fun fishing expedition with Eugenio.

Red peppers drying under the Italian sun in Calabria.

Driving home to Firenze from Calabria.

Aeoilan Islands

Piccola

Julie, Julie, Julie...

Ma cosa mi fai piccola? Hai strani poteri sai Jules, qualcosa di magico che fa fermare il tempo e lo spazio... non posso creder di avere trascorso tutto il weekend abbracciato a te, riempiendoti di baci e saziando il mio cuore con la tua presenza, mi stai facendo letteralmente impazzire e devo stare attento a non perdere il controllo!

Ciao un bacio, Marco

Pablo Neruda

To you!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ciao Jules, come stai??? Anzi: "dove sei????"

Ti mando questa poesia e fai conto che te la to leggendo io. Ricordi? Eravamo seduti all'Autogrill vicino alla Calabria (mi sembra che si chiamase Sala Consilina il posto) ed e uno dei tani dolci ricordi che ho del nostro breve viaggio...

Ciao Marco.

XLIV

Saprai che non t'amo e che t'amo

perche la vita e in due maniere,

la parola e un'ala del silenzio,

il fuoco ha una meta di freddo.

Io t'amo per cominciare ad amarti,

per ricominciare l'infinito,

per non cessare d'amarti mai:

per questo non t'amo ancora.

T'amo e non t'amo come se avessi

nelle mie mani le chiavi della gioia

e un ncerto destino sventurato.

Il mio amore ha due vite per amarti.

Per questo t'amo quando on t'amo

e per questo t'amo quando t'amo.

- Pablo Neruda.

Gordana & Sabine's Birthday celebration

Piazza Beccaria


Gordana, Sandra and Olga.

Dreaming..?

Although I've been here for over four months, it still feels like this is a dream. Time seems to be standing still and I feel as though I only moved to Italy last week.

I ADORE living in Firenze and feel as though this is where I'm met to be at this point in my life.

Life is essentially simple and I'm very happy. BLISSFULLY HAPPPY...

I started working full time at Casini, Pitti Palace a month ago. I work in both their stores. The first is an exclusive and beautiful shop which sells accessories and clothing for women (all Italian designers and natural fabrics). The adjacent second store, sells mens and ladies leather coats, shoes, brief cases, wallets, bags and belts. The most challenging aspect of work, is trying to comprehend their instructions when conveyed in frenetic Italian speech and stress levels in the store are high.Naturally this is a world away from my career, career aspirations and professional comfort zone, but for now I'm okay with that. I feel secure that I'm an intelligent, capable and resilient individual and that I can learn from this new experience and the people around me. 

Each day I kayak for an hour in the mornings before work and then in the evenings I'm free to play - to meet up with friends in ambient wine bars for an appertivo (or two), go to a friends house for a candlelit dinner vat their villa, attend contemporary art exhibits, theatre or dance shows, or sit on the Ponte near San Spirito, eating an ice cream at sunset whilst watching the crowds that past. I've made friends with some of the girls from work and have started swimming two nights a week at a local outdoor swimming pool. There are so many beautiful visual memories that I just feel like I'm dreaming.

I believe that I first fell-in-love with Italy as a country, a culture and its traditions when I was 23 years old; but I've somehow I've also imagined that I'd fall-in-love-in-Italy one day... Although I'm reluctant to say I'm in love because it may be too soon and I don't want to focus on that, 7 weeks ago whilst kayaking at the Firenze Rowing Club I met someone very special. Marco the handsome Florentine architect and we have be together every day since. He is beautiful. Really beautiful and I'm swimming in a sea of happiness. I feel secure, content, cherished, adored, stimulated, and sufficiently challenged. Gradually, he is etching his name and the memory into my life.

Everything is going well, however we recently litigated about a clash in our dreams. Naturally, I want to inevitably get married and have a family and Marco has already fulfilled these dreams and needs. I understand his situation, but am also in a dilemma, because these dreams are important to me and I want to see them fulfilled with the man I love.

As a result of lengthy discussions, I recently thought: What is more important 'Finding my soul mate? Or finding my husband and the father of my children?'. With Marco there is incredible synergy, natural energy and shared passions. I never thought I'd met a man who complemented me in every dimension of my life (art, theatre, food, sport, and culture) as he does. I don't know what the answer is or where this will go.. and I don't care either, because for now, I just want to be free to enjoy his companionship, attention and tenderness.

The weather is constantly hot and humidity is really high. Which makes walking through Firenze or dressing elegantly for work an immense challenge. Tomorrow I have the day off, so I'm heading to the Tuscan coast, Monte Argentario with Marco.

With the help of some friends, I recently relocated my belongings from Baccio da Montelupo to my 'own' apartment in San Frediano, in the heart of Firenze. We moved all my gear on a balmy Saturday night at 2.30am and spent the rest of the morning celebrating with red wine, pizza and laughter. We felt like adolescents. It was fun!

New address: Via dell'Orto 2C San Frediano 50124 Firenze Tuscany ITALIA.

Please come and visit... I don't ever want to leave.

Contemporary Arts in Firenze

George Tatges' photo exhibition at Villa Bardini, Firenze (September 2008).

Photography exhibition on contemporary dance, Piazza Pasera, Firenze (July 2007).

Falling in love

Marco and Jules, Fiesole

Marco & Jules, Fiesole

Marco & Jules walking through the streets of Fiesole after visiting his son Matteo.

A trace of him

I want him.
He wants me.
I hold the pillow where his head lay.
I lie on his side of the bed.
Doing this makes me feel closer to him,
Until we meet again.

Casini

Working at Casini's is a like a page out of a novel.

Who could have believed that Holly would stop and offer me a lift that day and that on the way to Florence, she would ask me if I was interested in working at Casini's.. ?

I still remember her description of me and the dialogue that followed

"You look like sunshine and sweetness. Do you want a job?.."

"..ah..mm..yeah..well I was actually..."

"Okay then! Do you have a phone? ... "cause's he's interviewing today"

I reach into my bag instantly

"Great then, okay now ring this number ..oh yeah and ask for Giorgio."

"Giorgio.." I repeat as I begin to dial 39..

"Yeah that's right Giorgio, tell him your interested in a job - and that you know Holly."

I was thinking about how I was casually dressed as I dialed the number and then felt like I tumbled over my words as I asked in 'pigeon Italian' for Giorgio.

I also remember the conversations Holly and I had in the car as we drove to Florence and her attempts to trigger some recognition in my face when she mentioned this well established and revered store.. "Casini's.. in front of Palazzo Pitti?.. You don't know it.. you sure? Anyway your great, you'll be great.. you'll get the job.. I'm sure"

Although the work can be challenging and demanding at times, it is a fun and interesting place to work and working in an international environment is enriching. I work along side woman from France (Sabine), Mexico (Claudia), Serbia (Gordana and Zelka), Crotia (Helena), Macadeonia (Olga), Romania (Carmen), Israel (Mera), Brazil (Dora and Carmila), one Florentine (Martina)... and I'm the Aussie girl!

Jules outside Casini, Palazzo Pitti.

Dora's surprise 30th birthday party

Dora's surprise 30th Birthday celebration

.

Our first date

Jules & Marco
A balmy night at Stazione Leopold, Firenze

After spending the past few days kayaking together, Marco has asked me out. At first, I wasn't sure what to say, because I had already booked a ticket to see a contemporary dance performance at Stazione Leopoldo. But I like Marco and I wanted to go out with him, so we talked about our commitments and decided to meet after the dance performance for drinks. 

It was a balmy night, so we sat outside sipping Sumemr cocktails and talking. Earlier today whilst I was cycling to the local market to buy my groceries, a car which traveled past me came so close that it wedged by hand on the handlebar against the rear vision mirror of a parked car. A small wound resulted. Marco noticed it on my left hand and placed a firm kiss upon it.

Canoteri, Firenze

Where our love story began...

Marco kayaking on the Arno River, & Jules inside the boat shed of the Canoteri, Firenze

The 'List"

Today I've been feeling unsettled, afraid & unsure of myself. So tonight to focus & clarify 'what is important to establish myself in Italy', I sat down on my bed and quickly sketched some 'raw thoughts' onto some paper. I used the beautiful colored pencils that Maria Mercuri had given me.

New experiences

Slowly I'm finding small niches in this enchanting and captivating city and have an array of experiences and unexpected stories to record...

Last week I began kayaking at the Societa Canoteri in Florence. A historic and prestigious rowing society on the banks of the Arno River and beneath the Uffizzi Gallery. The first day I went kayaking I was accompanied by a a handsome Florentine Architect called Marco Scaletti who gave me a golden coin to toss into the water and cast a wish as I past under the Ponte Vecchio for the first time.  Marco was born in Florence, he is very handsome, a beautiful gentle man, charismatic and wonderful company. His eyes are like diamonds and his smile engulfs me and the thought of seeing him again, fills me with an immense sense of joy.

Since becoming a member at the Canoteri, I have been kayaking daily for two hrs. One day I cycled in the morning in 33 degree heat for two hours and then in the afternoon kayaked. On Saturday I undertook a mountain cycling climb in the Tuscan hills with a Florentine cyclist. That day, it was 34 degrees, high humidity and insatiable heat. I think I'm now going a little too far.

Girls from Assissi

Sonia
Bar near Santa Maria Novella

Antonella
On the way to beaches of Maremma

Apart from sport and potential romance, I've also met some funky women; I met some girls during my trip to Assisi, who I would like to stay in touch with; Sonia who works in a local bar in Florence and Antonella who although originally from Sardenia has recently moved to Florence after working for Robert Caville for several years in Milan. Antonella likes to party, and eventhough I'm not into the night scene at the moment, after a late dinner last night we went out to a bar by the Arno River. Magical atmosphere, but boring crowd - it felt like I was in Melbourne. Foreign fair women and old or unattractive Italian men... no real eye candy. We met one guy 36yrs old, who was obsessing about this plastic looking woman he was having an affair with. Listening to his shallow conversations and superficial impressions of this woman made me cringe. Sometimes its the same story just a different place.

I may have found my Florentine abode. Last week I saw a gorgeous apartment in the historical centre of San Frediano near Piazza della Carmine. After work tomorrow I am going to view it again. The location is wonderful, it is spacious, and well serviced. I was standing in the lounge area the other day and started planning my first dinner party and preparing a meal for all the generous friends I've met.

Lately I've been allowing the simple things in life to resonate with me and am taking the time to simply enjoy the things I love. I've also embraced saying yes when invited to do something and the opportunites that have unfolded as a consequence have been wonderful.

While I'm still concerned about finding secure work and a little tired from last week, I'm happy.

A dream continues

It is difficult to know where to begin, as it is has been over 10 weeks since I left Melbourne and naturally there are so many memories and experiences to share.

After initially arriving in Italy I spent two months at Castello in Bisticci, in the mountains of Firenze, Tuscany, where I rented a beautiful villa, art studio and private garden with captivating balcony views over the Tuscan countryside.

The 14th century Castello was situated at the top of a steep hill (400 metre gradient & 1.5 km distance). Each day I traversed this distance to visit the nearest town, to buy my groceries, read the paper, sip lattes and chat to the locals - I aptly named this walk Rapunzels’ drive.

During my time at the villa I slept, had long baths, read outdoors in the garden, dappled with some creative ideas, cycled through olive groves and over Cyprus covered mountains, visited local markets, wrote letters and emails, day-dreamed, cooked beautiful and simple meals, sipped Moscato d’Asti, visited the galleries & theatres in Firenze and planned my solo weekend adventures. These weekend adventures normally commenced with preparing an overnight bag (sometimes including my bike) and concluded at a train station somewhere in Tuscany. The Santa Maria Novelle Train Station in Firenze is always energetic and the bustle of travelers moving through the city feeds my adventurous spirit.

As a result I’ve managed to explore many beautiful towns full of character, charm and photographic vistas. Amongst the memorable places are: Bagno Vignoni and Montalcunico Termes - where there are ancient thermal spas set in the crest of valleys and relaxing health spas. At Bagno Vignoni I had a hot stone massage, bathed in natural thermal spas, sat under a waterfall in the moonlight; Prato - where I attended a contemporary dance production called “Farfella” (Italian for love-stuck butterflies) and visited the contemporary art galleries including Pecci; Attended the open air antique markets in Lucca (home of Puccini) and Arezzo (where ‘Life is beautiful’ was filmed) - at the markets Florentine antique treasures and remnants from castles and churches are displayed in piazzas against the backdrop of renaissance churches and ornate buildings; Sun baked on the white sand beaches of Livorno, along with 5,000 bronzed Italians; Celebrated Easter in Assisi - on Good Friday I joined a religious and solemn procession through town accompanied by a Cardinal, friars, nuns, the solemn recitation of prayers and drums. These processions are traditional in Italy and I found the experience magical and moving. I also loved seeing the frescoes by Giotto and Cambue in the Basilica of San Francesco; I recently returned to Assisi to cycle around Umbria and attend a spectacular medieval festival. The celebrations dominated the town with visually extravagant displays including fire throwers, parades, dancing and acrobats. It finished at 4am. I felt like I was at the Venice Carnival; last week I visited one of the most enchanting and inspiring coastal landscapes I’ve ever seen at Cinque Terre, Liguria - fantastic hiking and kayaking! … many beautiful memories.

A couple of weeks ago a serendipitous and fortuitous chance encounter lead to a job proposal in Firenze and I’ve just recently moved to the historical centre of Firenze. Today I started working as a shop assistant at Casini an exclusive ladies and mens’ boutique in front of the Palazzo Pittti and near the Ponte Vecchio. The location is surreal, the clientele international and affluent and the clothes and accessories exquisite and the staff international, sweet and fun.

I’m slowly settling into Florentine life and finding my niches. I’ve joined the Firenze Rowing Club so will be kayaking on the Fiume River soon and have visited some art academies to enquire about art courses. This weekend I may join a cycling group on a long distance ride, but these Italian cyclists are so attuned to these Tuscan mountains, that riding with them is a little overwhelming, even if the view is wonderful.

Life in Italy is beautiful - fashion, theatre, food “cibo”, spirited and insightful conversations, Renaissance art and architecture, handsome Italians, colorful sunsets over Ponte Vecchio - plenty of opportunities to enjoy the simple pleasures in life.
Living abroad in a foreign speaking country on my own has given me the anonymity and space to breathe, unwind and enjoy all these treasures. I don’t know where the next adventure will lead me, but I just keep smiling and trying to live each moment, with open eyes and heart.

As my dream in Italy continues…

Cycling - Umbria

Umbria May 2007

(Left) Jules & Valentino on the train from Florence to Cinque Terre, Liguria. After trekking along the five coastal towns, I cycled through Umbria.

Cinque Terre, Liguria

I'm currently writing from the balcony of a villa in Vernazza. One of the old coastal towns in Cinque Terre, on the Liguria coast.



Its night time & beyond the sound of the band playing below in a bar in town, and the train as it wooshs through tunnels carved into ruggard mountains, is the roar of waves crashing upon the rocks ahead. Even at night, the panaromic sight of the Ligurian coast & the colourful villas makes my soul soar. Today as I walked along the mountains exploring the other coastal towns, I felt so happy. I adore the sea & dream of living by the sea with someone I love and who loves me. If only I had the name of my beloved, I too could inscribe it on a locket and bolt it to the bridge on Via d'Amore.


Italy has just had four days public holiday, & the locals tell me that Cinque Terre was congested with national & international visitors. Fortunately I managed to arrive at the tail end of the holidays, thereby able to experience its beauty & atmosphere both with and without the crowds.
I've met many beautiful, generous, embracing and interesting Italians; men, women, young and old, singles and couples.. But not him.. yet. Its not time yet.

I left my castel in the sky & Rapunzels' drive last week and moved to city of Firenze. Currently I'm sharing an appartment with a 24yr old musician & we have been getting along well.

Anyway, the appartment I'm currently sharing is small, basic and 20-30minute bus ride from the historical centre. Living in the heart of Firenze, is a once in a lifetime opportunity, so I've decided to rent for just a month & last week started looking at places to rent on my own near Palazzo Pitti.

I tried to get a lot of things sorted before starting work on Monday..! Very exciting. What a fantastic blessing. I couldn't have wished for a better location.

Ok..time for bed.
Baci da Liguria


Picture postcard scenes from the coastal towns visited in Cinque Terre, Liguria

Baccio de Montelupo

After Castello Bisticci (my castle in the sky and isolated, whimsical and quiet lifestyle), moving to Baccio de Montelupo in Firenze has been a huge cultural shock.

Yesterday after I awoke I sat on my little bed in my simply furnished room, and wondered... what am I doing here? It is a really unsettling period. I feel alone, unsure of myself and overwhelmed by this big city.. How am I ever going to find a job, make some friends, and find a place I can afford and which I can call my home. I have such dreams.. so many, many dreams.

I came to Italy because I wanted to experience what it was like to live in the country and to discover with my own senses its: culture, people, traditions and lifestyle. Its an experience I've always dreamt of. I choose Italy, because it is a part of my heritage, my upbringing and who I am. I want to discover what part of my heart (if any) is here, but today I feel afraid and doubt if I can do it.

Basillica San Chiara, Assisi

Cycling - Cellai to Rignano

Rignano
March 2007

After cycling from Cellai to Rigano in Tuscany I was thankful for the chance to rest whilst my computer was being serviced. I probably only cycled about 30-40 km today...mmm I definitely feel as though I don't have the cycling legs or stamina to tackle these Tuscan hills. Need to train, so I can join the Incisa Italian cycling club. I'm going to try and climb San Donata in Collina later this week. If I managed to cycle around New Zealand, I can cycle through this countryside. It just may take some time..

Cyling - Cellai to Arezzo

Cellai to Arezzo
March 2007

(Right) Jules & Valentino after cycling from Cellai to Arezzo (return) 120km...!

Cellai

Directions to Castello Bisticci, Cellai

I'm sitting writing to you on the balcony of the villa Castello Bisticci, Cellai (Firenze) where I'm staying. The wind is cool and the sun intermittent. Its around midday and whilst the afternoon siesta is encroaching, my day is about to begin. I haven't gotten into the rhythm of Italy yet as I'm still trying to find my on rhythm. Every day I go for long walks or a cycle and admire the Tuscan countryside and small villages, take the time to have a long bath, cook a delicious meal, have a mid afternoon nap, write and read. I achieve very little and this feels strange, but I still feel tired and reluctant to challenge myself to do much more.

The owners and fellow residents where I'm staying at Castello Bisticci are great company. Cid, Francesco and their 11 year old son Jess are the owners. She is originally from London and use to produce film documentaries, Francesco is from Bisticci, Tuscany, and the castle belonged to his family. He is a civil engineer who loves sailing. Jess is gorgeous and wants to be a soldier, stunt man or play computer games and win millions of dollars when he leaves school. Seems like he has all the bases covered.. They are all very generous and charming. Cid is full of fantastical and artistic ideas and our conversations have been vivid and spirited.

The other tennants at Castello Bisticci are Alexis, James and 9months old Oscar. They are from London and have been living here for 7months. Alexis has lived and studied Italian in Perugia for 2 years, so is fluent in Italian and the 'Italian way-of-living'. She studied Classics and Literature in Oxford and has been trying to write a novel whilst she is here but at times struggles with writers block. James has returned to London briefly to attend an interview. We went to the market in Incisia yesterday together and had coffee in a local haunt. We conversed about many things - great easy company. We are like a little family living in one Castle - really cute. We are planning on making gnocchi together and having dinner a dinner party with Cid, Francesco & Jess later this week.

There is so much opportunity (ie. time and no distractions) to write, create, paint, cycle.. but I too a lacking the impetus to do much. I want to get started on a project, but feel really lazy Annie. Ironically, I'm also enjoying being idle and letting whatever thoughts transpire through my mind. I feel like I was a tight coil before I left (post Masters, post work, preparing to leave for Italia) and now I just need to give myself time to uncoil. Being in this idyllic beautiful location is soothing my soul, but the mind continues to question What next? What do I achieve next? Its a inner voice that is hard to silence, because it has so strongly governed my life and decisions over the past years. I just think I've been so use to planning and thinking 24hours a day, that its hard for me to adjust to this dramatic change in lifestyle. The Castle is beautiful and I'm really happy here. However we are isolated as we are located at the top of a steep, steep hill. Actually I've decided to affectionately name the hill Rapunzels Drive.

Although Firenze is only 20 minutes away, access to Firenze and surrounding towns is very difficult without a car, or Lance Armstrong's' cycling ability. If transport continues to be a problem, I may consider getting a vespa. Except the hill is seriously so steep, that a vespa would probably struggle. Hence why I feel a bit like Rapunzel. Anyway, in a minute I'm going out for a cycle. I want to visit a local church that has beautiful frescoes and an artist in a local town who may teach me how to sculpture.

Washing day